I do apologize, first off, for having been so faithful in updating this while in Mexico, and then dropping off the dang Earth when I got to Belize. However, for any of you that have ever been ga-ga over that special lady or terrific dude, you understand how unappealing it is to step "outta the moment" and write all about it.
My last few days in Belize seemed to zip by me at breakneck speed. All of a sudden it was Saturday, then Sunday, and before I could drag my heels to slow it all down, BAM! Monday morning exploded out of nowhere and I was packed up, standing by the side of the now-familiar Northern Highway, praying that my Chetumal-bound bus would come later rather than sooner. Jake was headed South to Belmopan, and I was headed North. We both had bags packed and looks of utter unhappiness on our faces. Luckily, my bus came first, and Jake and I said goodbye quickly, with lots of huffs and puffs and puppy dog eyes. Then, I was on board, bags stowed, and barreling down the road once more.
Let me back up a little, though. Sunday afternoon, before I left, Jake and I went to the soccer field in the village, which is right in the heart of 'the court' - a two-store, one-restaurant strip on one side, facing a volleyball net, a pavilion, and the Carmelita Government School. The afternoon was hot and dusty, and the sidelines of the field were crammed with onlookers, most of whom were clutching umbrellas to ward off the heat while keeping half an eye on their sweaty, energetic little kids. We watched two games and laughed and joked around with the Conorquies - the big Kriol family that has taken Jake (and now, me) under their wing. It was a wonderful way to spend the last evening, and as the game finished up and the setting sun blazed low on the horizon, I was in surprisingly high spirits. I gazed at the people around me, watching Ms. Linda Conorquie suck her teeth and shake her head over everything... I watched Jake give piggy-back rides to a group of pink-clad four year old girls.. I watched teenaged boys pedal wide circles around crowds of people, scanning for pretty girls in short-shorts, and cracking jokes with uncles and brothers alike.
I love Carmelita. I love Belize on the whole, too, despite the numerous times I wanted to yell and complain about not being able to buy decent toothpaste, or a regular burger..... But Carmelita became my home in just a few short weeks and I am still astounded at the warmth and hospitality of its residents.
Here's a fine example...
After the futbol game on Sunday, Jake and I headed home so I could finish packing and so that we could play the whole 'don't go - i have to! - why? - you know why.- this sucks. - you're tellin' me" game. Maybe not the most fun thing in the world.
At about ten o'clock that night, Jake gets a text message. He reads it and calls me into the room. "Hey... Jeanine says she didn't get a chance to say goodbye to you earlier at the game... she wants us to come over really quick so she can hug you and all that."
Jeanine is the twenty three year old daughter of Ms. Linda Conorquie - the big mama matriarch over the whole family compound at the front of the village. Jeanine became a fast friend of Jake's and when I came to visit, she and I bonded quickly as well. Jeanine is loud, sassy, hilarious, and never apologetic about her behavior. She is always generous, and despite being a mama herself, knows how to party.
So... Jake and I walk out the door into the pitch black night with a huge twinkling net of starts overhead, and walk the four streets to the Conorquie house. The whole yard is dark when we arrive, and Jake and I are careful to be quiet as we walk up to the front door. Edward, Jeanine's sister, greets us and tells us most of the family is asleep, so he's just going to slip inside quietly and turn on some lights. Jake and I wait, paused at the door, for Edward to find the light.
All of a sudden, the room is bright as day, and the ENTIRE Conorquie family is not only awake, but is crowded into the living room. One collective breath is taken, and then "SUUUUUURRRRPRIIIIIISEEE!!!!!"
I nearly jump out of my skin, then dissolve into laughter and look over at Jake, who was clearly in on the whole thing, and who is now giving me the "what? what was i supposed to do, tell you?" face.
The Conorquies had gone to the Free Zone between the Mexico and Belize boarders, and purchased a table full of liquor, in addition to mixers, and Ms. Linda had cooked up nachos and tortillas with chicken for everyone. We ate, danced, drank and laughed our way long into the night. As Jake and I walked home much later, it sunk in with me that the Conorquies didn't really have money to spare on a big party for some white girl. But I was no longer some white girl... As Ms. Linda put it, when I left and when Jake finally leaves, she'll be losing 'two ah her pikni'. Ms. Linda treats us like family, and in her mind.... one of her adopted daughters was going away. Of course she'd throw a party. Ms. Linda loves her kids and loves her rum - so any chance to celebrate both is welcomed. :)
More about my travels after Carmelita back up the Mexican coast later... Lots of fun stories involved in that.. including a bartending gig for a Welsh hotel owner, a stolen passport, and the sunrise from Playa del Carmen.
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1 comment:
Susannah,
this is so special- brought tears to my eyes. What an amazing sendoff. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and for being such a sweetheart to my brother. He is lucky to know you. Love, Bridget
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