Saturday, January 10, 2009

They say that the passing of time in Mexico is akin to watching honey drip off of a spoon. It's slow and sticky and sweet, and you get really good at waiting, watching and savouring. However, there are moments interspersed that seem more akin to a fast-flowing river, and if you're not paying attention, you'll look up and see that two weeks have gone by.
I suppose I'm at that latter stage, completely baffled as to how it got to be January 10th, two thousand and nine. And in addition, I keep having these out of body experiences ... I'll look up from my book or my coffee or my plate of huevos rancheros and wonder how in the world I got here and what in the world I'm doing. If I were still in the States, these questions would probably unnerve me, but I'm becoming more content with not knowing the answers. Life is slow and easy here, and there is something wonderful about working your body in the heat of the day, cycling into town, walking the three miles to the beach, cooking your dinner from scratch - it's exhausting in the satisfying way that life ought to be exhausting - and I sleep like a baby at night.

Anyhow. I'm in Playa del Carmen at the moment - the most cosmopolitan, vibrant, European, crowded, goodlooking, good smelling, overstimulating place I've ever been. I made the trip up here with Elaine and Simon and their friend Cormac who recently flew from Ireland to travel with them for a few months. We're staying at a rundown, quirky place called Urban Hostel that seems to be populated entirely by disarmingly good looking Argentinean women and a pack of shirtless Italian men. Everyone is beautiful in that haughty, off-putting kind of way, but we four gringos are thankfully secure enough to just shake our heads and smile at them all.
Playa is nice in the way that I'm sure Miami is nice.... it is probably the most luxurious of places if you have money (there are spas and cafes and stores selling Gucci sunglasses on every corner) ... but if you're on a budget, it's a bit overwhelming. We went to a posh club last night on the beach with white leather square couches and a ton of beautiful people, but I found myself standing around a crowded bar, trying to seem taller, thinner, and prettier in order to get the barman's attention. Everything seems to be a competition here, and after a while that kind of environment starts to mess with your head. Like I said, though, it's an outrageously entertaining place.... I'm just ready to head back to my sleepy ranch now. :)

More to come... Jake and I have decided that February is not only the shortest month we could've picked for a visit, but he'll also be gone for the last week to Belmopan for Peace Corps things.. So I think I'll be heading down to Carmelita early - in about ten days - to lock in as much time as possible before I head out again. I hope everyone is happy and healthy and safe and warm - I miss and love you all!
Suzy

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Yessss !!! Forced to slow down and live on "earth time". Dripping, sweaty in the day... and sleeping at night. Sounds so ordinary - but it's so elusive.

Keep up the good work!

SNAYL

JacobHafkin said...

i like your introspective moments. Sounds like the hostel/bar/trip was a bit of culture shock...enjoy being able to look at situations like with a different pair of eyes. Keep smiling, laughing, reading and loving life!

binder said...

you guys are impossibly adorable. thinking of you.
bridget

Hedy said...

Susannah, so good to read about your travels and adventures in the Yucatan. Randy and I are from Asheville as I see you are as well. We have a house in Merida and live here in the winter. If you decide to head this way consider our home open and welcome to you. We'd love to host a fellow Ashevillian. When I was traveling around the world, getting out of the hostels and into people's homes was a highlight for me. Our Mexico number is 999-158-0990. All the best to you in your adventures. Hedy Fischer

Papa said...

Lovely stories, Binx. Those oobes (oo-bees, out of body experiences) are to be treasured, yes? Doc & I had them regularly during our three-week sojourn in Scotland '07. Our Playa Del Carmen moment came in Fort William, near the southern tip of Loch Ness. Having successfully avoided most Americans and all the touristy kitsch, we found ourselves in a t-trap restaurant surrounded by Yanks being entertained by a very earnest "you tak th' high road an' I'll tak the low one" singer and her synthesizer. We sang along, then fled into the Highland night.

Love,
Papa

PS - Did ye get yer package, eh?

Anonymous said...

Well, carnal' there is no doubt at all that we are related. I am proud to see the Ayliffe thirst for adventure made manifest in one of our own.
We would like to read about what happens in the course of your life there on Monday, Inauguration Day. Will it be anything special to the locals? It there a Pachanga in the works?
Alberto and I are completely entralled in your blog. We send you waves of love and admiration.
mucho cariƱo mija
Craig and ALberto