Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Monday, March 23, 2009
The big ole final wrap-up. Uh... Part 1
I do apologize, first off, for having been so faithful in updating this while in Mexico, and then dropping off the dang Earth when I got to Belize. However, for any of you that have ever been ga-ga over that special lady or terrific dude, you understand how unappealing it is to step "outta the moment" and write all about it.
My last few days in Belize seemed to zip by me at breakneck speed. All of a sudden it was Saturday, then Sunday, and before I could drag my heels to slow it all down, BAM! Monday morning exploded out of nowhere and I was packed up, standing by the side of the now-familiar Northern Highway, praying that my Chetumal-bound bus would come later rather than sooner. Jake was headed South to Belmopan, and I was headed North. We both had bags packed and looks of utter unhappiness on our faces. Luckily, my bus came first, and Jake and I said goodbye quickly, with lots of huffs and puffs and puppy dog eyes. Then, I was on board, bags stowed, and barreling down the road once more.
Let me back up a little, though. Sunday afternoon, before I left, Jake and I went to the soccer field in the village, which is right in the heart of 'the court' - a two-store, one-restaurant strip on one side, facing a volleyball net, a pavilion, and the Carmelita Government School. The afternoon was hot and dusty, and the sidelines of the field were crammed with onlookers, most of whom were clutching umbrellas to ward off the heat while keeping half an eye on their sweaty, energetic little kids. We watched two games and laughed and joked around with the Conorquies - the big Kriol family that has taken Jake (and now, me) under their wing. It was a wonderful way to spend the last evening, and as the game finished up and the setting sun blazed low on the horizon, I was in surprisingly high spirits. I gazed at the people around me, watching Ms. Linda Conorquie suck her teeth and shake her head over everything... I watched Jake give piggy-back rides to a group of pink-clad four year old girls.. I watched teenaged boys pedal wide circles around crowds of people, scanning for pretty girls in short-shorts, and cracking jokes with uncles and brothers alike.
I love Carmelita. I love Belize on the whole, too, despite the numerous times I wanted to yell and complain about not being able to buy decent toothpaste, or a regular burger..... But Carmelita became my home in just a few short weeks and I am still astounded at the warmth and hospitality of its residents.
Here's a fine example...
After the futbol game on Sunday, Jake and I headed home so I could finish packing and so that we could play the whole 'don't go - i have to! - why? - you know why.- this sucks. - you're tellin' me" game. Maybe not the most fun thing in the world.
At about ten o'clock that night, Jake gets a text message. He reads it and calls me into the room. "Hey... Jeanine says she didn't get a chance to say goodbye to you earlier at the game... she wants us to come over really quick so she can hug you and all that."
Jeanine is the twenty three year old daughter of Ms. Linda Conorquie - the big mama matriarch over the whole family compound at the front of the village. Jeanine became a fast friend of Jake's and when I came to visit, she and I bonded quickly as well. Jeanine is loud, sassy, hilarious, and never apologetic about her behavior. She is always generous, and despite being a mama herself, knows how to party.
So... Jake and I walk out the door into the pitch black night with a huge twinkling net of starts overhead, and walk the four streets to the Conorquie house. The whole yard is dark when we arrive, and Jake and I are careful to be quiet as we walk up to the front door. Edward, Jeanine's sister, greets us and tells us most of the family is asleep, so he's just going to slip inside quietly and turn on some lights. Jake and I wait, paused at the door, for Edward to find the light.
All of a sudden, the room is bright as day, and the ENTIRE Conorquie family is not only awake, but is crowded into the living room. One collective breath is taken, and then "SUUUUUURRRRPRIIIIIISEEE!!!!!"
I nearly jump out of my skin, then dissolve into laughter and look over at Jake, who was clearly in on the whole thing, and who is now giving me the "what? what was i supposed to do, tell you?" face.
The Conorquies had gone to the Free Zone between the Mexico and Belize boarders, and purchased a table full of liquor, in addition to mixers, and Ms. Linda had cooked up nachos and tortillas with chicken for everyone. We ate, danced, drank and laughed our way long into the night. As Jake and I walked home much later, it sunk in with me that the Conorquies didn't really have money to spare on a big party for some white girl. But I was no longer some white girl... As Ms. Linda put it, when I left and when Jake finally leaves, she'll be losing 'two ah her pikni'. Ms. Linda treats us like family, and in her mind.... one of her adopted daughters was going away. Of course she'd throw a party. Ms. Linda loves her kids and loves her rum - so any chance to celebrate both is welcomed. :)
More about my travels after Carmelita back up the Mexican coast later... Lots of fun stories involved in that.. including a bartending gig for a Welsh hotel owner, a stolen passport, and the sunrise from Playa del Carmen.
My last few days in Belize seemed to zip by me at breakneck speed. All of a sudden it was Saturday, then Sunday, and before I could drag my heels to slow it all down, BAM! Monday morning exploded out of nowhere and I was packed up, standing by the side of the now-familiar Northern Highway, praying that my Chetumal-bound bus would come later rather than sooner. Jake was headed South to Belmopan, and I was headed North. We both had bags packed and looks of utter unhappiness on our faces. Luckily, my bus came first, and Jake and I said goodbye quickly, with lots of huffs and puffs and puppy dog eyes. Then, I was on board, bags stowed, and barreling down the road once more.
Let me back up a little, though. Sunday afternoon, before I left, Jake and I went to the soccer field in the village, which is right in the heart of 'the court' - a two-store, one-restaurant strip on one side, facing a volleyball net, a pavilion, and the Carmelita Government School. The afternoon was hot and dusty, and the sidelines of the field were crammed with onlookers, most of whom were clutching umbrellas to ward off the heat while keeping half an eye on their sweaty, energetic little kids. We watched two games and laughed and joked around with the Conorquies - the big Kriol family that has taken Jake (and now, me) under their wing. It was a wonderful way to spend the last evening, and as the game finished up and the setting sun blazed low on the horizon, I was in surprisingly high spirits. I gazed at the people around me, watching Ms. Linda Conorquie suck her teeth and shake her head over everything... I watched Jake give piggy-back rides to a group of pink-clad four year old girls.. I watched teenaged boys pedal wide circles around crowds of people, scanning for pretty girls in short-shorts, and cracking jokes with uncles and brothers alike.
I love Carmelita. I love Belize on the whole, too, despite the numerous times I wanted to yell and complain about not being able to buy decent toothpaste, or a regular burger..... But Carmelita became my home in just a few short weeks and I am still astounded at the warmth and hospitality of its residents.
Here's a fine example...
After the futbol game on Sunday, Jake and I headed home so I could finish packing and so that we could play the whole 'don't go - i have to! - why? - you know why.- this sucks. - you're tellin' me" game. Maybe not the most fun thing in the world.
At about ten o'clock that night, Jake gets a text message. He reads it and calls me into the room. "Hey... Jeanine says she didn't get a chance to say goodbye to you earlier at the game... she wants us to come over really quick so she can hug you and all that."
Jeanine is the twenty three year old daughter of Ms. Linda Conorquie - the big mama matriarch over the whole family compound at the front of the village. Jeanine became a fast friend of Jake's and when I came to visit, she and I bonded quickly as well. Jeanine is loud, sassy, hilarious, and never apologetic about her behavior. She is always generous, and despite being a mama herself, knows how to party.
So... Jake and I walk out the door into the pitch black night with a huge twinkling net of starts overhead, and walk the four streets to the Conorquie house. The whole yard is dark when we arrive, and Jake and I are careful to be quiet as we walk up to the front door. Edward, Jeanine's sister, greets us and tells us most of the family is asleep, so he's just going to slip inside quietly and turn on some lights. Jake and I wait, paused at the door, for Edward to find the light.
All of a sudden, the room is bright as day, and the ENTIRE Conorquie family is not only awake, but is crowded into the living room. One collective breath is taken, and then "SUUUUUURRRRPRIIIIIISEEE!!!!!"
I nearly jump out of my skin, then dissolve into laughter and look over at Jake, who was clearly in on the whole thing, and who is now giving me the "what? what was i supposed to do, tell you?" face.
The Conorquies had gone to the Free Zone between the Mexico and Belize boarders, and purchased a table full of liquor, in addition to mixers, and Ms. Linda had cooked up nachos and tortillas with chicken for everyone. We ate, danced, drank and laughed our way long into the night. As Jake and I walked home much later, it sunk in with me that the Conorquies didn't really have money to spare on a big party for some white girl. But I was no longer some white girl... As Ms. Linda put it, when I left and when Jake finally leaves, she'll be losing 'two ah her pikni'. Ms. Linda treats us like family, and in her mind.... one of her adopted daughters was going away. Of course she'd throw a party. Ms. Linda loves her kids and loves her rum - so any chance to celebrate both is welcomed. :)
More about my travels after Carmelita back up the Mexican coast later... Lots of fun stories involved in that.. including a bartending gig for a Welsh hotel owner, a stolen passport, and the sunrise from Playa del Carmen.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
So, I apologize for pulling the old "girl meets boy and forgets all about everyone else" thing. It's annoying. I know. I'm back. :)
The past few weeks (or days? I've lost track) have been wonderful - full up with adventures at the Lamanai ruins, multiple run-ins with melon-sized spiders, speed reading, lots of experimental cooking, arts & crafts-ing, and good quality time with pooch, kitty, and boyfriend.
A couple fun stories:
On Saturday, Jake and I accompanied Betty and Tom (the kind of Peace Corps mom-n-dad in the Orange Walk area) and four other volunteers to San Estevan, a mostly Mestizo village about six miles from town. Betty had arranged an entire "fun day" for the village kids, complete with friendship bracelets, face painting, popsicle stick animals, Valentine card making, and a futbol game. We had tons of fun, and I spent three hours straight teaching a very capable group of pretty Mestizo girls how to braid, twist and tie the multicolored threads. Betty did a great job painting faces, and Coy and Jake had a blast tossing the football around with the kids. All in all, it was a productive and fun day - and I got my first real taste of what Peace Corps life is like. So much of it involves simply paying attention to these kids, letting them know that they're creative, bright, and worthy of one-on-one time. Easy enough, right? Especially for the bunch of kid-lovers that we are.
We also got the chance to catch the Super Bowl last Sunday... Jake and I went up to Corozal and stayed at the Sea Breeze - the same hotel that put me up when my initial attempt to get to Jake around New Years' failed. We had a really good time hanging out with Peace Corps volunteers - all of us reveling in the ultra-American combination of eating too much, drinking, shouting and watching football.
There are many more little stories I could write about, but I encourage you all, instead, to check out Jake's blog for a nice balance. He tends to write about all the wee details, while I just delve into a paragraph-long description of the sunset over the New River. :)
More later... We're headed to Caye Caulker tomorrow for a two-day Valentine's Day getaway. I must admit, I've missed the option of "taking a beach day", and I'll be delighted to wiggle my toes in pearly white sand again.
Love to friends and family alike.
The past few weeks (or days? I've lost track) have been wonderful - full up with adventures at the Lamanai ruins, multiple run-ins with melon-sized spiders, speed reading, lots of experimental cooking, arts & crafts-ing, and good quality time with pooch, kitty, and boyfriend.
A couple fun stories:
On Saturday, Jake and I accompanied Betty and Tom (the kind of Peace Corps mom-n-dad in the Orange Walk area) and four other volunteers to San Estevan, a mostly Mestizo village about six miles from town. Betty had arranged an entire "fun day" for the village kids, complete with friendship bracelets, face painting, popsicle stick animals, Valentine card making, and a futbol game. We had tons of fun, and I spent three hours straight teaching a very capable group of pretty Mestizo girls how to braid, twist and tie the multicolored threads. Betty did a great job painting faces, and Coy and Jake had a blast tossing the football around with the kids. All in all, it was a productive and fun day - and I got my first real taste of what Peace Corps life is like. So much of it involves simply paying attention to these kids, letting them know that they're creative, bright, and worthy of one-on-one time. Easy enough, right? Especially for the bunch of kid-lovers that we are.
We also got the chance to catch the Super Bowl last Sunday... Jake and I went up to Corozal and stayed at the Sea Breeze - the same hotel that put me up when my initial attempt to get to Jake around New Years' failed. We had a really good time hanging out with Peace Corps volunteers - all of us reveling in the ultra-American combination of eating too much, drinking, shouting and watching football.
There are many more little stories I could write about, but I encourage you all, instead, to check out Jake's blog for a nice balance. He tends to write about all the wee details, while I just delve into a paragraph-long description of the sunset over the New River. :)
More later... We're headed to Caye Caulker tomorrow for a two-day Valentine's Day getaway. I must admit, I've missed the option of "taking a beach day", and I'll be delighted to wiggle my toes in pearly white sand again.
Love to friends and family alike.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Just a quick update, family and friends... I made it down to Belize safely, on Thursday of last week.. Wednesday night I left the ranch around five, and got to Tulum about an hour later. I checked to see if the famous Weary Traveler Hostel had any space (no), and instead opted for the quiet, air-conditioned and spotlessly clean room at the Hotel Maya, on Tulum's main drag. I had a wonderful dinner at Charlie's, a Mexican-owned Tulum institution, and wandered the streets for a bit before turning in early. I arose at dawn (my body is programmed to wake at 6:20 now) and had a surprisingly good cup of coffee before hopping on a Chetumal bus. I've been through the Chetumal terminal three times now.. enough to befriend Miguel, a fifty-something janitor at the bus station with a crooked smile and twinkling eyes. He put down his broom and gave me a big hug, rattling on and on in Spanish about how excited he was that I was going to see my boyfriend in Belize, and I promised to bring him back a souvenir upon my return back up the Yucatan coast in February.
The past week in Carmelita has been absolutely wonderful. Jacob has established such a community here, and there is nothing more wonderful than taking Moses the dog on an evening walk and hearing the shrill little voices of Carmelita's kids yelling out "mistah jekob!" from the houses and yards we pass. I got to meet Miss Linda and Jeneane, Emerson and Edward, and all of the good people that Jacob has gotten to know here. We watched two soccer games this week, had dinner served to us three times by Miss Linda (whose plate portions would kill a man if he ate every last bean and grain of rice), and went by the Carmelita school to see Jacob's garden. The kids at the school have done an incredible job of planting seeds and making sure they stay watered, and we're heading back to the village in just a bit to work on an art project for the garden. Each bed was planted by a group of kids, and we though it'd be a nice idea for them to paint signs for each row to take some ownership of their hard work.
All in all, life is wonderful here, and I can't wait to continue to get to know the multitude of people that have opened their houses and their hearts to Jake in the three months he's been here.
More to come later... Hope all is well in the States! Stay warm!
The past week in Carmelita has been absolutely wonderful. Jacob has established such a community here, and there is nothing more wonderful than taking Moses the dog on an evening walk and hearing the shrill little voices of Carmelita's kids yelling out "mistah jekob!" from the houses and yards we pass. I got to meet Miss Linda and Jeneane, Emerson and Edward, and all of the good people that Jacob has gotten to know here. We watched two soccer games this week, had dinner served to us three times by Miss Linda (whose plate portions would kill a man if he ate every last bean and grain of rice), and went by the Carmelita school to see Jacob's garden. The kids at the school have done an incredible job of planting seeds and making sure they stay watered, and we're heading back to the village in just a bit to work on an art project for the garden. Each bed was planted by a group of kids, and we though it'd be a nice idea for them to paint signs for each row to take some ownership of their hard work.
All in all, life is wonderful here, and I can't wait to continue to get to know the multitude of people that have opened their houses and their hearts to Jake in the three months he's been here.
More to come later... Hope all is well in the States! Stay warm!
Saturday, January 17, 2009
so, jacob gets a glamour shot in his blog, and so do i.
here's a portrait that i hope will adequately showcase how i feel every morning, waking up in a beautiful tangled jungle full of tropical birds and venomous snakes, knowing that i'll be greeted by the yips and bays of eighteen attention-lovng dogs while I make my coffee and slowly stretch myself awake..most days preoccupied with thoughts about gardens and herbs and the handsome man anticipating my arrival in a little Belizean village hugged by sugar cane fields.
here's a portrait that i hope will adequately showcase how i feel every morning, waking up in a beautiful tangled jungle full of tropical birds and venomous snakes, knowing that i'll be greeted by the yips and bays of eighteen attention-lovng dogs while I make my coffee and slowly stretch myself awake..most days preoccupied with thoughts about gardens and herbs and the handsome man anticipating my arrival in a little Belizean village hugged by sugar cane fields.
Friday, January 16, 2009
The infrequency with which this country provides internet for everyone's use is borderline comical.
I stopped at the internet cafe in the pueblo, the cheaper one, to use their Skype in the fan-cooled white tile room.... however, the smiling woman who works there politely informed me that they were "out of internet." Bummer. I went across the highway to the pricier, tourist-riddled Internet Cafe, prepared to spend the astronomical 6 US dollars for an hour of internet, only to find it closed, with a For Sale / Se Vende sign duct-taped to its window. Double bummer. So I dug out my iPod, which can receive wireless internet where available, and was just in the middle of checking things on Facebook when the power died. My frustration level is rising.
So I'm here, at the Papeleria-cum-Internet Cafe, on a yellowing old IBM computer, having just endured two unexpected power outtages waiting for my gMail account to load.
Again, at this point, it's almost comical.
The past few days have nearly drowned the ranch - dogs, chickens, cats and all - in a torrential downpour of biblical proportions. I've been working mostly inside, doing some spring cleaning with Lucy (which involves me pulling down plastic cups and Pyrex dishes from high shelves, hoping that roaches don't land on my head)... and occasionally, when the rain tapers off to a sprinkle, running out to plant papayas and banana trees out by the WWOOF house.
The dogs are frustrated, too, cooped up due to the rain, sleeping on damp blankets that refuse to dry completely in the humid air, and we've had two terrifying dog fights in the past week. As I said to Lucy this morning, the strength of the 'pack mentality' is something one doesn't really understand fully until one witnesses an out-and-out brawl between the dogs. Pulling a Rottweiler off of a hardened jungle pup with teeth flying everywhere and primal snarls and growls from all sides is enough to make anybody a believer in the wild wolf origins of these seemingly domestic animals.
Thankfully, none of the dogs were wounded seriously, and Lucy and I were shaken up, but neither of us sustained any kind of injury, which is good. Just shaky knees and hoarse voices from screaming at them to stop.
I'm winding down here at the ranch, not so much losing steam or motivation... just becoming preoccupied with dreams about Belize. I love working here, and I love Mexico on the whole, but the old itch is nagging at me and I'm ready to move along. Working at Lucy's has been an enriching, exciting, and thoroughly enjoyable experience, but ultimately the property belongs to her, and for all of the work I've done, I won't reap any of the benefits. I'm not upset about this fact in the least... on the contrary, I know that the ranch runs more smoothly with the help of volunteers and I care about Lucy's stress level enough to feel satisfied in just helping things along here, for her sake. I'm excited, though, to get my hands in the dirt of Belize and plant herbs and veggies and flowers that Jake can enjoy for the next two years. Even if it's not me using the homegrown cilantro for salsa, it's someone I care about... and it'll be fun to hear about the progression of the garden once I'm back Stateside.
Que mas.... Thank yous are in order for both my wonderful Nana and my extremely generous Papa, without whose help I probably wouldn't be able to do this whole soul-searching, solo-traveling shebang. Thank you, thank you. :)
More to come as I move on down the coast. Until then,
abrazos
Suzy
I stopped at the internet cafe in the pueblo, the cheaper one, to use their Skype in the fan-cooled white tile room.... however, the smiling woman who works there politely informed me that they were "out of internet." Bummer. I went across the highway to the pricier, tourist-riddled Internet Cafe, prepared to spend the astronomical 6 US dollars for an hour of internet, only to find it closed, with a For Sale / Se Vende sign duct-taped to its window. Double bummer. So I dug out my iPod, which can receive wireless internet where available, and was just in the middle of checking things on Facebook when the power died. My frustration level is rising.
So I'm here, at the Papeleria-cum-Internet Cafe, on a yellowing old IBM computer, having just endured two unexpected power outtages waiting for my gMail account to load.
Again, at this point, it's almost comical.
The past few days have nearly drowned the ranch - dogs, chickens, cats and all - in a torrential downpour of biblical proportions. I've been working mostly inside, doing some spring cleaning with Lucy (which involves me pulling down plastic cups and Pyrex dishes from high shelves, hoping that roaches don't land on my head)... and occasionally, when the rain tapers off to a sprinkle, running out to plant papayas and banana trees out by the WWOOF house.
The dogs are frustrated, too, cooped up due to the rain, sleeping on damp blankets that refuse to dry completely in the humid air, and we've had two terrifying dog fights in the past week. As I said to Lucy this morning, the strength of the 'pack mentality' is something one doesn't really understand fully until one witnesses an out-and-out brawl between the dogs. Pulling a Rottweiler off of a hardened jungle pup with teeth flying everywhere and primal snarls and growls from all sides is enough to make anybody a believer in the wild wolf origins of these seemingly domestic animals.
Thankfully, none of the dogs were wounded seriously, and Lucy and I were shaken up, but neither of us sustained any kind of injury, which is good. Just shaky knees and hoarse voices from screaming at them to stop.
I'm winding down here at the ranch, not so much losing steam or motivation... just becoming preoccupied with dreams about Belize. I love working here, and I love Mexico on the whole, but the old itch is nagging at me and I'm ready to move along. Working at Lucy's has been an enriching, exciting, and thoroughly enjoyable experience, but ultimately the property belongs to her, and for all of the work I've done, I won't reap any of the benefits. I'm not upset about this fact in the least... on the contrary, I know that the ranch runs more smoothly with the help of volunteers and I care about Lucy's stress level enough to feel satisfied in just helping things along here, for her sake. I'm excited, though, to get my hands in the dirt of Belize and plant herbs and veggies and flowers that Jake can enjoy for the next two years. Even if it's not me using the homegrown cilantro for salsa, it's someone I care about... and it'll be fun to hear about the progression of the garden once I'm back Stateside.
Que mas.... Thank yous are in order for both my wonderful Nana and my extremely generous Papa, without whose help I probably wouldn't be able to do this whole soul-searching, solo-traveling shebang. Thank you, thank you. :)
More to come as I move on down the coast. Until then,
abrazos
Suzy
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